Turkey in Winter: Snowy Cappadocia, Mild Istanbul and the Slopes

Turkey in winter means a mild, damp Istanbul, snow on the fairy chimneys of Cappadocia, ski slopes from Uludağ to Palandöken, and a train across the white plateau to Kars. From December to February, the days are short and cool. The beach season is over, yet the south coast stays mild enough for long walks through ancient cities. Here is how we plan a winter trip.

What is Turkey like in winter?

Turkey in winter changes with altitude. Istanbul is mild but damp: in January, the average high is about 9 °C (48 °F) and the low about 4 °C (38 °F), and rain falls on roughly every second day. On the Anatolian plateau, by contrast, Cappadocia averages about 4 °C (39 °F) by day and −4 °C (25 °F) at night in January. Antalya on the south coast, however, averages about 15 °C (59 °F) by day. So pack layers, a waterproof jacket and shoes with a good grip.

Is Istanbul worth visiting in winter?

Yes, Istanbul is worth visiting in winter, because winter brings salep, boza and hammam afternoons. On average, January and February each bring four or five snowy days, and then the domes and minarets turn white. For the weather month by month, see Turkey in January and Turkey in February. Warm up the local way, with roasted chestnuts from the street carts and an afternoon in a hammam; read our guide to the Turkish bath in Istanbul. For the full picture, read Istanbul in winter, and for the last night of the year, New Year’s Eve in Istanbul.

Is Cappadocia worth it in winter?

Yes, Cappadocia is worth it in winter, because snow on the fairy chimneys makes some of the most beautiful photographs of the year. Balloons still fly, but winter winds cancel more flights. So book your flight for your first morning and keep two or three more mornings free. Also, check the heating and hot water before you choose a cave hotel. Read Cappadocia in winter for the details. At dawn and dusk, a Cappadocia photography tour takes you out with a guide who knows where to stand.

Where can you ski in Turkey in winter?

You can ski in Turkey in winter on several big mountains:

• Erciyes, near Kayseri: 41 runs and more than 100 kilometers (62 miles) of pistes, about an hour from Cappadocia; read skiing near Cappadocia.
• Palandöken, Erzurum: some of the longest runs in Turkey, with dry, powdery snow from December to April.
• Uludağ, Bursa: the mountain above the first Ottoman capital, a ski resort in winter. Snow usually covers it from October to April, and our Uludağ ski tour in 3 days sleeps two nights up there.
• Sarıkamış, near Kars: slopes among thick forests of Scots pine, with some of the best powder snow in Turkey.

What is the Eastern Express in winter?

The Eastern Express is the train from Ankara to Kars, about a day across the steppe and the mountains. In winter, the snowy landscape makes it one of the most popular rides in Turkey, so book well ahead. In Kars, then, see the ruins of Ani in the snow and ride a horse-drawn sleigh across frozen Çıldır Lake. Finally, end the day with roast goose on bulgur pilaf. Our eastern Turkey tour combines Kars and Ani with Erzurum.

How do you plan a winter trip to Turkey?

Plan a winter trip to Turkey around the cities and the snow, and leave the beaches for summer. A classic plan is Istanbul and Cappadocia; see our Istanbul and Cappadocia in 5 Days. Then add a few ski days at Erciyes, or the ancient cities of Perge and Aspendos near mild Antalya. For other seasons, read the best time to visit Turkey.

Would you like a winter trip with snow, a cave hotel and a warm hammam at the end of the day? Winter balloons need spare mornings, so send us your dates and we will plan the route and the flights with room for them. Start with a tailor-made trip, and add our Erciyes ski day to the Cappadocia days.