Kumkapı
Kumkapı, the Sand Gate of old Istanbul: lanes of fish taverns with live music, the seat…
Photo: courtesy of Çapari Restaurant
The Kumkapı fish restaurant that a fishing family opened in 1966, with sea bass baked in salt and turbot served whole on the lane of Çapariz Sokak.
In 1966, an established fishing family opened a restaurant on a lane of Kumkapı. This is the old fishermen's quarter inside the sea walls of Istanbul. Çapari Kumkapı still stands on Çapariz Sokak, among the fish restaurants that fill the lanes of Kumkapı every evening.
The family came to Istanbul from Rize in the 1960s. Arif Fişek began fishing as a boy on his father’s boat in Kumkapı. Later, he went on to cook at Çapari with his brothers. The restaurant has long had friends at Galatasaray. Arif Fişek also cooked seafood for the team at its Florya training ground. Besides, former club presidents have gathered here for their traditional Galatasaray evening.
The kitchen leans on the classics of a Kumkapı table. Sea bass comes baked in a crust of salt, and turbot arrives whole. Fish also comes cooked in paper or on a clay tile, alongside grilled squid, fish köfte and a saffron pilaf. For a slower dish, ask for the fish buğulama, a gentle stew, or the kavurma, fish browned in the pan.
We suggest it for a long dinner in the old city, with meze (small dishes shared at the start of a meal) first and the fish to follow. The menu runs from simple grilled fish to whole fish made for sharing. Book a table for friends or family.

Our Kumkapı walk visits the Armenian quarter in the early evening and ends with dinner among the fish restaurants. So tell us if you would like a table here. Before you sit down, see the Surp Asdvadzadzin Patriarchal Church a few streets away.
We reserve your table at Çapari.
Updated: November 1, 2026.
Tell us which evening you have free in the old city. Then we will walk you through Kumkapı and book a table at Çapari for the salt-baked sea bass.
Kumkapı, the Sand Gate of old Istanbul: lanes of fish taverns with live music, the seat…
The church of the Holy Mother of God in Kumkapı, across the street from the Armenian…
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A fishing family opened Çapari in Kumkapı in 1966.
The house specials include sea bass baked in salt, whole turbot, fish cooked in paper and saffron pilaf.
It is on Çapariz Sokak, No:16/18, in the fish restaurant lanes of Kumkapı.