Büyükada
Büyükada, the largest of Istanbul's Princes' Islands: a car-free island of wooden mansions, pine woods, a…
Photo: Turkey Your Way
Nine car-free islands in the Sea of Marmara, once a place of exile and later a summer resort for Istanbul's many communities.
Less than an hour by ferry from the center of Istanbul, a chain of pine-covered islands floats in the Sea of Marmara. Yet there are no private cars here, only bicycles, electric carts and footpaths, and the streets are lined with old wooden mansions. The Princes’ Islands, known in Turkish simply as Adalar, “the Islands,” are where Istanbul goes to slow down.
So take the ferry, pick one or two islands, and give yourself a full day. Still deciding? Read are the Princes’ Islands worth it.
The archipelago has nine islands off the Asian shore of Istanbul, and together they form Adalar. Four islands are large and inhabited: Büyükada, Heybeliada, Burgazada and Kınalıada. The other five, by contrast, are much smaller. All of them have hills, and Aya Yorgi Hill on Büyükada is the best known.
In Byzantine times, emperors sent unwanted rivals into exile here. Princes, empresses and other royals all ended up on the islands. After 1453, similarly, the Ottomans sent members of the sultans’ families here, and that is where the name “Princes’ Islands” comes from.
Then, during the 19th century, the islands became a popular resort for wealthy Istanbul families. Many of their mansions still stand. At that time, however, most islanders were Greek, and each island also had its own character. Kınalıada, for instance, was largely Armenian from the 19th century until the mid-20th century, while Burgazada was mostly Jewish. Today, in contrast, most residents and visitors are Turkish, but that mixed past still shapes the churches, synagogues and houses you see.
Leon Trotsky also spent years in exile on Büyükada. It was his first stop in exile. Later still, the writer Sait Faik Abasıyanık lived on Burgazada and set many of his stories there.
The largest island, Büyükada, covers about 5.4 square kilometers (2.1 square miles). People know it best for its grand mansions, the hilltop Monastery of Aya Yorgi and the huge wooden building of the former Greek Orphanage. For more, see our full guide to Büyükada.
Heybeliada, in Greek Halki, is the second largest island. On its Hill of Hope stands the Halki seminary, which opened in 1844 as a school for Orthodox clergy. Today it is closed. Near the pier, the grounds of the Naval Cadet School hold Kamariotissa, a late Byzantine church.

Burgazada is a single hill about 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) across. In ancient times, a fort stood here, and that is why the Turks call it “Burgaz,” meaning fort. Today, Sait Faik’s house is a museum, and at Kalpazankaya, a bronze statue of the writer looks out over the sea.

Kınalıada, “Henna Island,” is the first stop of the island ferries from the city. The island takes its name from the reddish color of its earth, which comes from the iron and copper once mined here. For this reason, it also has fewer trees than the other islands.
The islands ban motor vehicles, except for service vehicles. Instead, visitors walk, rent bicycles from the many shops, or ride battery-powered electric carts that work like taxis. Horse-drawn carriages once carried visitors, but they have been replaced by electric vehicles.
In winter, Heybeliada has a few thousand residents, but in summer, as owners return to their houses, the number grows many times over. Then the local council hosts small open-air concerts, and swimmers fill the sea club by the shore.
Our notes for the Princes' Islands
Our suggestion Do two islands, not four. Take the morning ferry to Büyükada for the bicycle loop and the climb to Saint George, then hop back to Burgazada or Heybeliada for a late lunch and the sunset ferry home.
Because Istanbul has no better escape from itself. Step off the ferry, rent a bicycle and ride among the wooden mansions, with the city's skyline faint across the water.
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We take you over by ferry from Kabataş (about an hour to the first island) or by motorboat from Bostancı (about 25 minutes).
No. Apart from service vehicles, people get around on foot, by bicycle or in electric carts.
Büyükada is the largest, with its mansions, while Heybeliada, Burgazada and Kınalıada are smaller.
Byzantine and later Ottoman rulers sent royal rivals here into exile, which gave the islands their name.
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Heybeliada
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Burgazada
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Kınalıada