Van Fortress

Overview

On the eastern shore of Lake Van, a long ridge of pale rock rises sheer from a green plain. Along its top run walls and towers, and in its cliffs open the dark doorways of royal tombs. Almost three thousand years ago, this was Tushpa, the capital of Urartu, a kingdom of the eastern highlands strong enough to challenge Assyria. Today, Van Fortress is one of the great ancient sites of eastern Turkey, and the view from the top takes in the whole blue lake. Our Urartu tour in 9 days begins here.

So bring good shoes, come in the late afternoon, and stay for the sunset over the water.

Van Fortress, the Citadel of Urartu

To begin with, the fortress stands just west of the modern city of Van, between the city and the lake. The rock is about a kilometer long and very narrow, with steep cliffs on both sides. Also, its builders used the rock itself as part of the defense, so walls, stairs and chambers are cut straight into the stone.

History of Van Fortress

Tushpa, capital of Urartu

In the 9th century BC, the kings of Urartu made this rock the heart of their capital, Tushpa. From here, in turn, they ruled a land of fortresses, canals and vineyards across the highlands where Turkey, Armenia and Iran meet today. In general, their builders laid the lower courses of the walls in large stone blocks without mortar and raised the upper parts in mud brick.

Many masters

After Urartu fell, however, the fortress passed from hand to hand. Medes, Persians, Armenians, Parthians, Romans, Sassanids, Byzantines, Arabs, Seljuks, Safavids and Ottomans each held it. Finally, Russian troops took it during the First World War. So the walls you see today mix Urartian foundations with medieval and Ottoman repairs. Near Van, see the Urartian castle of Çavuştepe.

What to See at Van Fortress

The Xerxes inscription

On the south face of the rock, about 20 meters (66 feet) above the ground, a smooth panel carries an inscription of the Persian king Xerxes from the 5th century BC. Its three columns, each of 27 lines, also repeat the same text in Old Persian, Elamite and Babylonian. In it, Xerxes records that his father Darius had the niche cut but left it empty. It survives in almost perfect condition, and it is best seen from the path below.

The rock tombs and the royal stable

Then, along the cliffs, the Urartian kings cut burial chambers deep into the rock, reached by steep steps. Further up, a large hall carved in the stone, known as the royal stable, held oxen and sheep for sacrifice to the gods of Urartu. It is about 20 meters (66 feet) long.

The ruins of old Van

At the foot of the rock, on its south side, lay the old walled town of Van, home to Armenian and Muslim families for centuries. During World War I, Russian forces occupied Van in 1915, and the old walled city below the fortress burned. That same year began the Armenian genocide of 1915–16, the Ottoman government’s destruction of its Armenian population. Today, only a few mosques, a brick minaret and the outlines of streets rise from the grass, a moving place to walk.

How to Visit Van Fortress

Getting there

The fortress lies a short drive west of the city center, on the road toward the lake. Also, taxis and city minibuses run there from the center. Our eastern Turkey and Black Sea tour climbs it on its last morning.

When to go

Late spring to early autumn is best. In winter, wear warm shoes with a good grip for the snowy paths. At any time of year, however, the late afternoon light is the most beautiful.

Seeing Van Fortress with us

Our eastern Turkey tour includes the fortress, Akdamar Island and the shores of Lake Van. We arrange your visit to the fortress as part of a Van day.