Phaselis

Overview

Pine trees shade a wide stone street that runs from one small bay to another. On both sides lie baths, market squares and a theater, while the arches of an aqueduct stand among the trunks. Then the street ends at the water, and you can swim in an ancient harbor. This is Phaselis, a Greek port on the coast south of Kemer. Our Olympos Chimaera tour stops here.

Many ruins bake in the open sun, but Phaselis sits in a forest by the sea. So it is the rare ancient city where you can explore in the shade, then end the visit with a swim. The mountains of the Olympos coast rise behind it, too.

Phaselis, a City of Three Harbors

Phaselis lies north of Tekirova in the Kemer district of Antalya province, south of Kemer. The site sits on the main coast road between Antalya and Kumluca. It is also part of the Olympos Beydağları National Park, among forests of pine and cedar.

The city grew on a small peninsula between three harbors. Its position made it a leading port of eastern Lycia, and its ships traded with Greece, Egypt and Phoenicia. Daily boat trips from Kemer and Antalya also stop here. For a week on a gulet from Kemer, see our Kemer Kekova blue cruise.

A Trading Port Between Lycia and Pamphylia

A Rhodian port in Lycia

Tradition has it that settlers from the island of Rhodes founded Phaselis in the 7th century BC. The city stood on the border of Lycia and Pamphylia, so ancient writers placed it sometimes in one region and sometimes in the other. For a long time, it also stayed outside the Lycian League. Its coins, however, showed ships, because trade made it rich.

Alexander and the pirates

In 333 BC, the people of Phaselis welcomed Alexander the Great with a golden crown. Later, in the 1st century BC, pirates troubled the city, just as they did nearby Olympos. The pirate leader Zeniketes even held Phaselis for a time, until Roman forces under Publius Servilius Vatia defeated him.

Roses, Achilles and a slow decline

In Roman times, Phaselis was famous for its roses, from which people made perfume. Its temple of Athena also displayed a spear that ancient writers claimed had belonged to Achilles. However, from the 3rd century AD, pirates and later Arab fleets threatened the harbor again. Finally, when the Seljuks made Antalya and Alanya their main ports, Phaselis lost its trade.

From Harbor to Harbor in Phaselis

The main street of Phaselis

The heart of the city is its broad main street, which runs across the peninsula. At its southern end stood a gate built in honor of Emperor Hadrian. Along the sides, you pass shops, baths and agoras, so walk it slowly and look into each square.

The theater and the baths

The small theater climbs the slope of the acropolis, with Mount Tahtalı rising behind it. Below it lie two baths, one large and one small. In the small bath, look for the heating system under the floor, which shows how Roman baths kept warm.

The aqueduct of Phaselis

The most striking monument of Phaselis is its aqueduct. It brought water from a spring on the hill to the north, and its arches still stand between the trees near the entrance. In the morning light, it makes a fine photo.

The three harbors

Phaselis had three harbors: a northern one, a small city harbor and a larger southern one. Tombs of the necropolis also line the shore above the northern bay. Today, people swim from the shore of the southern harbor, so bring a swimsuit.

Swimming Among the Ruins

The coast between Kemer and Tekirova is lined with hotels, yet Phaselis still feels wild. Walkers on the Lycian Way also pass close by on their way along the coast.

Picnics Under the Pines

There is little food at the site, so bring water and a picnic for the beach. Then, for dinner, head to Kemer or Tekirova, or continue south to the village restaurants of Çıralı near Olympos.

How to Visit Phaselis

Getting to Phaselis

• From Antalya: follow the coast road south past Kemer toward Kumluca; the turn is north of Tekirova.
• By boat: day trips from Kemer and Antalya stop in the bays of Phaselis.
• Further south: combine it with Olympos and the flames of the Chimaera for a full day, or continue to Myra.

Local tips for Phaselis

• Come early or late, when the light is soft.
• Bring a swimsuit, because the harbors are the best part of a hot day.
• We arrange your entry to Phaselis and its three harbors.
• Base yourself in Antalya and its old town, Kaleiçi, for day trips along this coast.
• Drive south at dusk to see the eternal flames of the Chimaera above Çıralı.